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Silicone molds

Silicone mold box

Builds a printable shell around your model: pour silicone into it and you get a reusable mold for wax, soap, resin and concrete. The file is sent only for the computation and is not stored.

  • Input: Model
  • Output: Formwork, base and clamps

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Step by step: from model to cast

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Silicone mold box

What you get

  • Formwork around the master — a box, a cylinder or a hugging shell: silicone goes inside it.
  • The master fused to the base: it will not float up in the silicone, and the mold needs no cutting — the master comes out through the opening underneath.
  • Printed dovetail clamps for the seams, so you are not holding the shell in G-clamps for a day.

How it works

  1. 1Upload the masterThe very model you will be casting copies of. The silicone becomes the mold; the printed shell is only formwork.
  2. 2Set the silicone allowancesContoured has a single layer — Silicone at the sides, 6 mm all around the outline. A box or cylinder takes sides, seam, floor and top separately: 12 mm for small pieces, 15–20 mm for large ones. The panel works out the pour volume, so you can buy the silicone before, not after.
  3. 3Print, pour, demoldPrint the formwork, snap the clamps on and pour the silicone; you can coat the inside with release agent first. A day later the shell comes apart and the silicone mold is ready.

Material and process

What to keep in mind before pouring

SettingValueWhy
Silicone allowance6 mm contoured; for a box 12 mm small, 15–20 mm largeA thin mold tears while demolding, a thick one merely costs more. A box counts the allowance from the bounding box, so the corners come out thicker
Master mountOn the baseThe master stands sole-down on the plate, leaving an opening in the finished mold — no need to cut it open
Mount on a plinthNarrow soleA small opening is not enough to peel the mold off: a raised master gets silicone all around it
Release agentOptional, all over the formworkPlatinum silicone sticks to PLA less than tin-cure does, but it still sticks

Slicer settings are the same for every mold and live on their own page: how to print molds

If something went wrong

Symptom, and what to change

Silicone crept underneath the master
That is the peg: its fit has a joint. Mount on the base or on a plinth — a fused master has nowhere to creep.
The mold tears while demolding
The silicone wall is thin: no less than 6 mm contoured, 12 mm and up for a box, and no less on the seam than on the sides.
Bubbles in the silicone
Pour a thin stream into one corner and let it stand — never stir inside the formwork.
The clamp will not slide onto the tail
Printers print oversize: fit clearance → 0.20–0.25 mm, and print one clamp as a test first.

Questions

Good to know

How much silicone goes around the model?

It depends on the formwork shape. Contoured (the default) runs the wall along the model, so 6 mm means 6 mm all around the outline. A box or cylinder counts the allowance from the bounding box: 12 mm suits most figures, above 20 mm you waste material and the mold loses its spring. Below 6 mm the silicone tears while demolding; on the seam, where you cut the mold open, keep at least as much as on the sides.

Which of the parts do I print?

The formwork pieces, the base and the clamps. The model prints together with the base as one part, so it cannot float up in the silicone. It comes out as a separate part only with the peg mount: then you can skip printing it if you already have a physical copy.

How is «Contoured» different from a box?

A box is filled all the way, so you pay for the volume of the whole crate. A contoured shell stands its walls upright around the model's outline as seen from above, at the gap you set; recesses a wall could not slide out of sideways are bridged over instead of followed. It takes less silicone for anything that is not brick-shaped.

Does my model go to your server?

It is — but only for the time it takes to compute. We do not store it: no archives, no copies. Until you press the button, the file never leaves your browser.

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